The Ultimate Guide to Medellín, Colombia

While it became well-known after everyone's favorite Netflix series (Narcos) aired, Medellin is actually one of the most interesting and innovative cities in Latin America (and is so much more than just Pablo Escobar's home town). We got to spend a week in Medellin for the first time a few years ago, and then chose to go back (it wasn't a very hard decision) with Unsettled for an entire month this past February. As usual, below is everything you need to know!

Fun fact? Medellin is known as "La Ciudad de la Eterna Primavera" or "The City of Eternal Spring" so enjoy their weather. Fun fact #2? Did you know that the popular ".co" domain ending is actually the official country domain of Colombia?

GETTING AROUND

Main airport is Jose Maria Cordova International. It is a small airport and isn't usually very busy. This makes the process of entering the country pretty seamless and quick. The airport is about a 45-60 minutes car ride and it should cost between $20-$25. PRO TIP: as Medellin is located in the mountains, expect lots of curves and turns and changes in altitude on your way from the airport. If you tend to experience motion sickness, it is worth keeping that in mind.
Visa: Americans are currently not required to issue a visa in order to travel to Colombia.
The airport has several ATMs on the first and second floors.
Getting from airport to your hotel/Airbnb: there will be taxi drivers as you exit the airport—just make sure that you agree on the price in advance. Uber is currently operating in Medellin and is another convenient and cheap option. With that said, Uber is currently experiencing some legal issues in Medellin and several times, friends of ours got pulled over and had to find another car. Nothing will happen to you if you get pulled over (they do confiscate the driver's car, however). That is why we do not recommend using Uber to and from the airport.
When in Medellin, we recommend staying in or around "El Poblado". It is where you'll find most of the action as a tourist. If you're looking for something a bit more raw, we recommend staying in the beautiful Envigado!
There is a great Metro system in Medellin. The locals are known for their innovation and one of the examples is that this metro includes cable cars that go up and down the mountainous city. This definitely makes it one of the coolest metro systems we've used and a great tourist attraction. The locals are extremely proud of this system and they keep it clean and well maintained. Don't be surprised if you're questioned by a local about your opinion on their metro. Our tip? Tell them you LOVE it. :)
As always, it is highly recommended to get a data plan from your carrier or a local SIM with a data plan. It is pretty affordable and helps a lot. Side note: did you know that T-Mobile has a very affordable plan in the US that includes free data worldwide? YES, the future is here people, and we made the switch.
SUPER PRO TIP: download an offline map of Medellin on the Google Maps App. Click HERE for instructions. If you can't find the download button, just tap the menu button on your Google Maps app, choose the third option ("Offline Areas"), hit "Custom Area" and zoom out and scroll to the area in Colombia you would like to have available offline and hit Download. If you get a message that "the area isn't available offline", zoom out a bit. It should work. What does having an offline area mean? It means that you will be able to see where you are and navigate even without internet connection. Your GPS (that blue dot on the map) works even with Airplane mode turned on and cellular data turned off. Furthermore, you can find museums, restaurants, internet spots, bars, etc, in advance on Google maps and add flags known as "labels" (here is how). That way you will be able to navigate to those places even without internet. Still have a question? Get in touch and I will help. :)

MONEY

Local currency: at the time of writing this the exchange rate for 1 USD is 2857 COP (Colombian Pesos). Click here for current exchange rate.
Getting local currency: I find it best to withdraw money from the ATM. Usually best exchange rates. Be sure to inform your bank of your travel plans.
Credit cards are widely accepted around the Poblado neighborhood and much less elsewhere. Tips can also be charged to a card. They usually ask if you want to include the tip in the bill, and if you do, it will be 10% automatically. PRO TIP: By law, and in order to decrease fraud, the restaurant employees are not allowed to take a credit card out of the customer's sight. They will always come to the table with a terminal and charge you on the spot. They really take it seriously over there. A nice fact to be aware of so you aren't confused by the somewhat different (in comparison to the US) payment process.

LANGUAGE

I Don't Give Papaya!! AKA: I don't give people a reason to steal my stuff.

In the more touristy areas, such as El Pobaldo, many people speak English and some restaurants have English versions of their menus. With that said, some level of Spanish is definitely helpful and if you would like to take this travel opportunity to learn/improve your Spanish (which you totally should), here are some tips that can really help:

Take a few Spanish classes in advance (nothing fancy), an app would do. I highly recommend Babbel. You can also download classes and continue learning offline on the plane or anywhere else! With Babbel you do have to pay a little for a subscription but it is worth it. This app is really awesome and took my Spanish to the next level! If you are looking for a free option, Duolingo is also great.
Download the Google Translate App and then be sure to download the offline Spanish dictionary in advance. You will be able to translate even without internet! Here is how.
Be patient, positive and keep an open mind. Find the fun in miscommunication. It's bound to happen.

BEST AREAS TO EXPLORE AND STAY AT IN MEDELLIN

El Poblado - We recommend staying in the Poblado neighborhood, it is within distance of where all the "cool (Colombian) kids" hang, and where most of the best restaurants and bars in Medellin are located.
Envigado - This is the next best place to hang out and possibly stay in. It features more of a local look and authentic feel.

Where to stay

Casa del Reloj

In our humble opinion, this is the best (style+location) place to stay at in Medellin. This place is also awesome for when you travel with friends and family, as it has amazing options in the form of apartments with large common living and dining spaces and multiple bedroom suites with a bathroom and shower in each.

Charlee Hotel

At times, while sitting atop Charlee's rooftop bar and sipping a cocktail, you'll forget that you're in Colombia and instead, feel like you're grazing a skyscraper in NYC...Until you raise your gaze and spot the lush mountaintops that is... The Charlee hotel is the place to be if you don't mind spending the extra $$$ the hotel rooms are a nice way to roll.

Airbnb

Us? Airbnb is always the way we roll. And in Medellin? There is no shortage in beautiful apartments for great prices.

Where to eat

Verdeo - $$

Instead of saving the best for last... This is our #1 recommendation in Medellin. Click here to read more.

Café Zorba - $$

Best. Pizza. Ever.

Zaaika - $$

Located right next door to Zorba. Nothing fancy but surprisingly good Indian food.

Natto - $$

In a country where so much of the food is heavy/fried, this place is like a breath of fresh air. Clean flavors with fresh and healthy ingredients, Thai influenced.

Lenteja Express - $

Strictly vegetarian. Very good burritos and veggie burgers.

Marietta - $

Located across the street from Lenteja Express and also 100% vegetarian (maybe even vegan), this place is an awesome choice when you want a quick and cheap meal. Their "menu del dia"* (delicious juice, soup, a full meal and a dessert for around $4) will not disappoint anyone.

*Speaking of menus del dia, if lunch specials are your thing (and they should be!), check out this comprehensive guide!

Subula - $$

Jumping back to the side of the street of Lenteja Express (what can we do, Carrera 35 is pretty awesome when it comes to food options). This joint is being run by super cool bogotanos (peeps from Bogota). Think Colombian Johnny Depps. Quick service style greek food, really delicious. Try the chicken salad!

Pergamino - $

This is the most talked about coffee shop in a country where coffee might be the most talked about subject.

Botanika - $$

While the service can be a bit weird (not bad, just a little off) this is a beautiful coffee shop/restaurant with good food. Give their burger a try. It is also a good and quiet place to write/work.

Velvet - $$

Another cool coffee shop to relax and or/work.

Konico - $

Konico is a quick service style restaurant that serves "sandwiches" in wheat and/or corn cones. It is pretty good and is reasonably priced.

Toscano Tratorria - $$

An authentic Italian cuisine for when that craving hits.

Romero - $$$

Another Italian place in a more fancy (than Toscano) setting. We love the salmon fillet with the fehttuchini in Alfredo sauce. Yum.

Oci.mde - $$$$

While it looks like there was a change in ownership since we last visited (it was called Ocio and was absolutely our favorite place), and they came a bit short(rib) this time around, it still deserves a spot in this list. It is one of the "fancier" places to dine in while in Medellin and is worth the experience.

Carmen - $$$$

Another fancy schmansy joint that is definitely worth a visit. We highly recommend to opt for the tasting menu with wine pairing! At around $45 a person, even as one of the most expensive restaurants in Medellin, it is still a steal compared to what we would pay in a western city.

What to do

Ride bikes in the jungle

This is a great experience and another awesome way to see other parts of the city.

- Approx. $75 for 20 minutes.

Go paragliding

This is kind of a must when in Medellin, the land is so beautiful that seeing it solely from the ground is just not enough...

- Approx. $45 for 20 minutes. Tip: Take a sweatshirt. :)

Eat street food

The 3 hour street food tour in Envigado by La Mesa is amazing. Best empanadas, best arepas de chocolo, best... well, just go and find out yourself.

- $45 per person

Visit a coffee plantation

With all due respect to Medellin, the real magic of Colombia lays in its smaller towns and more rural areas. if you take our recommendation to visit this beautiful finca/coffee plantation (linked above, about 3 hours drive from Medellin), be sure to also spend a night in Jardin. Unbelievable views and a michelada anyone?

Climb a huge rock

About two hours drive from Medellin, there is an area called Guatape. Why are we telling you about it? Because there you can take your Narcos obsession to the next level and play some paintball in Pablo Escobar's old mansion, you can feel like iron man in the water with that thing, and you can (should) climb 750 stairs to the top of this incredible rock.

Use the Metro

Seriously, what's so special about a subway ride? Well, the fact that we are not talking about the subway part but the CABLE CAR part. Comically known as "the cheapest sightseeing tour in the world", this ride will allow you to capture the views and local life of Medellin from a whole different angle, literally.

Colombian Resilience Sprouts Vegetarian Cuisine

As we travel the world, our favorite things to stumble upon are stories. Stories of people who live differently, and stories of people who live well.

You may or may not know that Colombia—and Medellin in particular—is full of such stories.

After its dark history of narco-trafficking and after decades of being the world’s most violent city, we can now take a bite of Medellin’s fruit of resilience. Today, the city is nearly unrecognizable from its drug days of the 90’s and it’s all thanks to her people. The Paisas—Colombians born and raised in the northwest and Medellin in particular—are determined to live their lives to the fullest and turn their city into one of dreams realized.

Verdeo, a family-run vegetarian restaurant is one such dream-project. Now stationed in its brand new location in the Manila neighborhood on Calle 12, the restaurant is run by a father-daughter duo and prizes itself on its spectacular, homemade + organic vegetarian concoctions sprinkled with style.

If you’re lucky, owner Felipé Hernandez or his bright-star of a daughter, Isabela, will tell his tragic story of growing up in the Medellin of the past. The happy ending was the inspiration to open Verdeo, which has now become the city’s most talked-about vegetarian + vegan restaurant. The Hernandez’ story, like many Colombian histories, will shake you—and while it’s not our story to tell, know that it’s one that will leave you with a newfound appreciation for “bloodless” food from the Earth, family, and making the best of whatever cards we’re dealt.

Here’s what to expect as you climb the stairs to Verdeo:

You’ll emerge, and feel immediately welcomed by the open-air feel and immense ceilings—but know that Verdeo has nothing of ego. It is, instead, totally familial; a restaurant that from its core is so natural and so true to its roots that you have no choice but to show up the same. So climb up, smile your best smile, and take a seat.

Start first by opening your palate with a fresh drink. We recommend the homemade, vegan Chai Frio con Miel (sweetened with agave), or the Jugo de Lulo.

If you’re going for lunch, check out the Menu del Dia and opt for it if they have the Sopa Vietnamita. Vietnamese food is very unique for Colombia as the ingredients are difficult to come by. Having been in Vietnam, Verdeo does this vegetarian soup true to tradition—in a way that warms your stomach and your senses. Be sure to save room for dessert, which comes with your meal!

Albondigas al pomodoro, absolutely delicious

List of other must-order items:

Albondigas al pomodoro — the meatball equivalent, which is very filling. Order it as your entree with the Ensalada de la Casa.
Bowl de Garbanzos y Zataar
Milanesas Verdeo — another incredible dish for those looking for something “meatier”
La Mexicana Veggie burger
Tapioka for dessert!

Artisanal, seasonal, and local — this is one Paisa-born dream you should surely find time to partake in during your time in Medellin.

The Ultimate Guide to Mexico City

Mexico City (CDMX- Ciudad de Mexico) is a modern hub where all of Mexico's diverse regions collide. From amazing art and history, to mouth-watering food and the many street markets, it's hard to find a dull moment in this city. We spent over a month in Ciudad de Mexico and here is everything you need to know:

GETTING AROUND

Main airport is Benito Juárez International Airport. It is a very busy, yet very organized airport. Immigration and customs are straight forward. Be sure to fill out your forms on the airplane to save time.
Visa: Americans are not required to issue a visa in order to travel to Mexico, and in most cases you will get a stamp for 180 days of travel within the country.
The airport has many ATMs by the taxi booths after clearing customs and getting your luggage.
Getting from airport to your hotel/Airbnb: there are authorized taxi booths after customs so be sure to utilize those. Taxi's are relatively cheap. The ride from the airport to pretty much anywhere in the city should take around 30-45 minutes and cost about $200MXN ($9.5 USD). Uber (and even UberEats) is operating in Mexico City and is another convenient and cheap option.
This city is big, both geographically and population wise (over 20M). It is easy and safe to walk around in most parts and at most times of day. Contrary to media reports and popular belief, we never felt unsafe. It is recommended of course to follow "Large City" procedures such as not being too "flashy" with expensive equipment and belongings (iPhones, jewelry, bags, cameras), especially in the subway/metro.
Speaking of the Metro: it is a great and efficient way to getting around the city. If you ever used the metro in NYC, Paris or London you will find this system to be very similar. A ride is as cheap as $5MXN (25 cents).
Alternatively, Ubers are between $2-$5 for rides ranging from 10-40 minutes.
As always, it is highly recommended to get a data plan or alternatively, get a local SIM with a data plan, it is pretty affordable and helps a lot. Telcel has some great data plan options (around $8 per 1GB, or $24 for 4GB) and it is super easy to set up, just stop by any of their locations. Not difficult to find!
SUPER PRO TIP: download an offline map of Mexico City on the Google Maps App. Click HERE for instructions. If you can't find the download button, just tap the menu button on your Google Maps app, choose the third option ("Offline Areas"), hit "Custom Area" and zoom out and scroll to the area in Mexico you would like to have available offline and hit Download. If you get a message that "the area isn't available offline", zoom out a bit. It should work. What does having an offline area mean? It means that you will be able to see where you are and navigate even without internet connection. Your GPS (that blue dot on the map) works even with Airplane mode turned on and cellular data turned off. Furthermore, you can find museums, restaurants, internet spots, bars, etc, in advance on Google maps and add flags known as "labels" (here is how). That way you will be able to navigate to those places even without internet. Still have a question? Get in touch and I will help. :)
PRO TIP: Many restaurants are closed on Mondays!

MONEY

Local currency: at the time of writing this the exchange rate for 1 USD is 21.3 MXN (Pesos). It is actually an amazing exchange rate for Americans and it makes this already cheaper city (compared to other large cities) even more affordable! Click here for current exchange rate.
Getting local currency: I find it best to withdraw money from the ATM. Usually best exchange rates. Be sure to inform your bank of your travel plans. Again, the airport has many ATMs by the taxi booths.
Like any other big city, credit cards are accepted (almost) everywhere and with no minimum charges or surcharges. Tips can also be charged to a card. For good service, we recommend tipping between 15%-20%.

LANGUAGE

Obviously, Spanish is really helpful in Mexico, as many people don't speak English and most restaurant menus are exclusively in Spanish. Don't you worry though, hotels, museums and many restaurant employees DO speak English. However, use this opportunity to learn/improve your Spanish. It doesn't have to be perfect (ours isn't)! Here are some tips that can help a lot:

Take a few Spanish classes in advance (nothing fancy), an app would do. I highly recommend Babbel. You can also download classes and continue learning offline on the plane or anywhere else! With Babbel you do have to pay a little for a subscription but it is worth it. This app is really awesome and took my Spanish to the next level! If you are looking for a free option, Duolingo is also great.
Download the Google Translate App and then be sure to download the offline Spanish dictionary in advance. You will be able to translate even without internet! Here is how.
Be patient, positive and keep an open mind. Find the fun in miscommunication. It's bound to happen.

BEST AREAS TO EXPLORE AND STAY AT?

Coyoacán - located downtown, this was the first neighborhood in Mexico City. If Frida Kahlo chose to stay here most of her life, then you know it must be the coolest place in town. This neighborhood has the most culture, colorful structures, street markets and picturesque parks in Mexico City.
Roma - Roma (Norte and Sur) probably features the best and hippest restaurants + bars in all of Mexico City. Other than that, is however pretty quiet and has a mostly residential vibe.
Zona Rosa - this is a small area in the Northern part of town that is close to many of the best museums, theaters and plazas. There are lots of restaurants and bars with a laid back vibe.
Condesa - Similarly to Roma, this also a quiet residential neighborhood with lots of parks to grab a seat, sip a latte and relax in. Lots of nice restaurants, a bit more upscale then most of the city. Also known for its fancy nightlife and great shopping.

Where to stay

There are many awesome boutique hotels in Mexico City, here are some of our recommendations:

Hotel Carlota

Located in Zona Rosa, this hotel features beautiful modern-industrial design, a heated pool, and a wonderful restaurant by chefs Joaquin Cardoso & Sofía Cortina.

Chaya B&B

Located by the beautiful Alameda Central Park, near many of CDMX's best museums and theaters, this hotel is super hip with very clean design. Chaya features many cool communal spaces such as an awesome rooftop. Delicious breakfast and coffee is served daily. Only 11 rooms.

La Valise

Located in Roma Norte next to some of Mexico City's best restaurants and bars, this true "boutique" hotel features only three rooms! Each is uniquely designed. How about their indoor/outdoor suite with a king size bed that can be rolled out to the terrace so you could sleep under the stars??

The Green House Room

This one is located between two great neighborhoods—Roma and Condesa. Its atmosphere, like its design, is very warm and welcoming.

AIRBNB - Like this one we stayed at.

Airbnb in Roma Sur, Mexico City — Airbnb in Roma Sur, Mexico City

We always recommend staying at an Airbnb (or even several in different neighborhoods if you plan to hangout for a while), as it enhances the experience 10x! Why, you ask?

- You are "forced" to get to know a city/neighborhood on a deeper level by living like a local, shopping for groceries and essentials, and interacting with neighbors.

- You are "pushed" to speak the language as you aren't in the "tourist bubble" that hotels create.

- You can cook! (or not).

- Most importantly, in most cases, it is so much cheaper!

Where to eat

Roma Norte

Mog Bistro $$

One of the best Asian restaurants in the city. They have delicious sushi and Pad Thai and some awesome "poke" style bowls and dumplings. Saki and cocktails are also amazing. It is always extremely busy but it is a large space and waiting time is usually about 10 minutes.

Bowie $$$

This restaurant pays grand homage to David Bowie, who has his mural on the wall and the words "Cocina de Humo" (Kitchen of Smoke) right beside. Many of the dishes either feature a smokey taste (tastefully though) or a little smoke "pyrotechnic" during the presentation. The restaurant is as unique as Bowie himself and has some very cool looking and delicious tasting food and cocktails. Try their amazing beet carpaccio and (best we've had) Fish & Chips, and wash it off with some Cardamom Lemon Gin & Tonic. The zoodles pasta is also a great Vegetarian/Paleo option.

Beet Carpaccio and Fish & Chips at Bowie

Mercado Roma $$

Every big city has to have a cool market that features funky food concepts, beer gardens, and gelato right? Well, New York City has Chelsea Market and Mexico City has Mercado Roma. Be sure to pay a visit!

Zapote $$

Delicious Italian food that is a bit fancier than the traditional pizza & pasta. The 1/2 chicken was very tasty.

Aguamiel $

Traditional Oaxacan Mexican Kitchen. Very authentic in a modern setting and great service. Great Mole con Pollo, quesadillas and enchiladas. And of course, it wouldn't be completely without trying one of the mezcal cocktails.

Chetito $

Another traditional Mexican kitchen with a twist. Great tacos! These tacos are huge by the way (probably twice what you are used to). Laid back atmosphere. Perfect for a not too fancy but still cool taco and beer experience.

El Parinta

THE place for cheap great tacos (and other stuff). Great for lunch and extremely popular among locals. They even have tacos with hummus! Try their "agua del dia" which is usually delicious water infused with fresh ingredients such as pineapple and basil.

Helado Obscuro

And lastly for dessert... A cool and refreshing gelato concept that infuses alcohol (mezcal, gin, whisky and more) into their mixtures. Their fun branding and graphics is only a plus. Check 'em out!

Coyoacán

Los Amantes $

A great little coffee shop and bistro. Really good for breakfast and lunch. Try the chicken pesto sandwich and squash soup.

Amarcord $

Cozy Italian joint with great service and even better food. Great pastas, delicious chicken breast and salmon.

Fortuna Cafe $

This little gem is much more than a cafe. They have great food for both lunch and dinner and the service is great. Try the pescado empanizado (breaded fish) or the salmon! It is very new so the location on google map is a off, the restaurant is located on the south side of Calle Pdte. Carranza, between San Francisco Figuraco and Vallarta.

Hacienda de Cortes $

This is a beautiful outdoor restaurant with delicious food. Have a 1/2 bottle of wine and try their Poblano chicken mole or the breaded fish.

La Santa Gula $$

Best place for burgers, hotdogs and desserts. NOTE! They do not serve alcohol. You must try their BBQ sauce and their onion marmalade! Great service and very nice laid back atmosphere.

El Barbiquiú $$

A cool well-designed place that has traditional barbecue dishes with a modern twist. Try the half chicken with two sides. The salsas and the black beans are very good as well.

Mezcalero

This is more of a hip neighborhood bar than a food joint, very cool Mezcal Cocktails.

Zona Rosa

Hotel Carlota Restaurant $$$

This is a wonderful chef's restaurant experience. Great cocktails, and you must try the short ribs in curry sauce.

Bravo Lonchería $

Great little place with traditional Mexican food with a twist. Super fresh ingredients, incredible salsas, amazing sandwiches and the best fish taco in town. Solid drinks too!

Balboa Pizzeria $

Owned by the same guys who own Bravo Lonchería and located right next door, this is a fun and laid back place for when the mood strikes for some simple Italian food (pizza, pasta, salads).

Condesa

Roberta Trattoria $$

Another solid Italian place. Delicious pasta arrabbiata.

What to do

Casa Azul

Located in Coyoacán, this is Frida and Diego's house-turned-museum. You already know that it is going to be beautiful because of the previous tenants so let me just give you some tips and info. DO buy your tickets online (you will be prompted to choose a date and time) and then show up about 20-30 minutes before your designated time. Facing the entrance you will notice two lines, one going east (right), and the other west (left). If you bought your tickets online your line is on the left but be sure to ask just in case. Talking about lines, unfortunately this museum is super popular and therefore extremely busy. Be patient though, it's definitely worth it if you are a Frida Kahlo and/or Diego Rivera fan. Cost: $130 MXN ($6 USD), it costs a few extra dollars at the museum if you want to take photos. :) Buy tickets (boletos) here.

EL Bazaar Sábado

ou must explore the San Angel area. It is beautiful and full of little boutiques and restaurants. The Bazaar Sábado (Saturday Market) is only open on Saturdays from 10am - 7pm. It is highly recommended to go on a Saturday as the whole area gets filled up with arts and crafts street markets, but even if you can't go on a Saturday it is still worth exploring the area.

Mercado del Carmen

Also located in San Angel, this is another version of a cool hybrid market with up-and-coming food concepts and indie designer shops. Similarly to NYC's Chelsea Market. It is a short walk from Bazaar del Sábado so why not combine the two on the same day?

Museo Nacional de Culturas Populares

Located in Coyoacán, this museum is super colorful and SUPER interesting.

Museo Nacional de Arte

With this one, you'll feel more like you're in Paris than Mexico City. From the beautiful architecture to the many classic pieces of art. Be sure to look out for any special expeditions. Free entrance on Sundays. NOTE: it costs a few dollars if you want to take photographs.

Museo Nacional de Antropología

In this huge and very impressive structure you will be able to go back in time and explore the history of evolution. Cost: $70 MXN ($3.5 USD). No extra cost for photography.

Teotihuacan Pyramids

Tip: don't use your drone, you might get in trouble. :)

This is a MUST for anyone who visits Mexico City. Who doesn't want to explore a magical city that was somehow built thousands of years ago with no machines or technology??

So here is what you do:

First, DO wear tennis shoes, bring water, and wear sunscreen! You're going to be walking out in the sun a whole lot. To get out of CDMX, take an Uber or the Metro to the Autobúses de Norte station. You want to head over to Gate 8. You can buy round trip bus tickets there (costs 100 MXN = $5 USD). The bus ride is a little under an hour. When you arrive at Teotihuacan you will have to buy entrance tickets at the front gate (70 MXN = $3.5 USD) and then walk over to enter the city (it's about a 5 minutes walk). PRO TIP: if you go during the summer, try to get there by 10am (opening time) as it may get real hot real fast. You'll be smart to climb those pyramids before noon! Once you've had your fun getting closer to the Sun and the Moon, head out towards the exit to the left of the Pyramid of the Moon. Head over to the Museo Murales Teotihuacanos Beatriz de la Fuente. After this museum, exit right from the main entrance. This road will lead to all the restaurants available (about 10 minute walk). We chose the first restaurant on the left ("La Caterina"). The food was solid!

Viñales, Cuba

If you are dreaming of beautiful valleys full of tobacco farms, corn fields, and beautiful views, look no further than Viñales. It is a small town about 2 hours west of Havana and it is definitely worth exploring for couple of days.

Where to stay

Being a small town, Viñales is an easy place to get around by foot. Pretty much every house is a casa particular, and you won't have any trouble finding a place to stay for around $20-$25 a night. Assuming you took a taxi collectivo, as soon as you're dropped off in the city center you'll be greeted and approached by a crowd of locals offering their casas. Feel free to walk around and ask questions and choose the casa that's right for you.

Our host in Havana actually gave us the address to the casa that we stayed in.

Where to eat

El Olivo

A super quaint Mediterranean restaurant with reasonable prices.

Eat at your casa!

Like we mentioned, eating at your casa in Cuba is almost always a great experience. Let your host know in advance that you're interested in breakfast or dinner, and they will take it from there!

The Churro Stand - on the corner of Adela Azcuy and Camilo Cienfuegos

We're talking $1, freshly fried churros. Stuff it with chocolate! :)

What to do

Valle de Viñales

This valley is gorgeous and not to be missed. Let your casa know that you're interested in horseback riding (if you are), and they can hook up the adventure where you'll ride horses into the valley and explore the local tobacco farms along the way. Around $25 per person. As I mentioned before, Many people will try to sell you cigars on the streets in Havana. It is illegal and most of the time those are fake and are made with banana leaves or other ingredients that are not tobacco. This tour in Viñales will be your best chance to buy the highest quality cigars for the best price. You will get to meet the farmers and learn about the process first hand, and smoke hand rolled cigars (sometimes dipped in honey or whisky, which is an amazing tradition). Cost is about $3 per cigar and they will usually have a minimum purchase of about 20 cigars, but everything in Cuba is negotiable. They say it is legal to come back to the U.S. with up to $100 worth of cigars per person.

Trinidad, Cuba

Trinidad is a beautiful little town about 4 hours south west of Havana. It is an awesome break from the hustling of Havana. From the picturesque streets, to the beautiful restaurants with wonderful live music, to the incredible nature and water falls a short ride away.

Where to stay

Casa Isabel y Grisel - $30 per night

e cannot recommend this place enough. The location is great, the accommodation is wonderful, the food is great, and most importantly the family is unbelievable. By the time we had to leave after 4 days, we were hugging and tearing a little. :)

Where to eat

At your casa

They will make delicious simple breakfast which is usually eggs (anyway you like), fresh fruits, bread, fresh coffee/tea and juice! $5 per person. I also highly recommend having dinner one night at your casa. They will make anything you want (fish/chicken/pork/vegetarian/etc.), Carlos prepared for us delicious fish, rice, vegetable soup, salad with avocado from his garden! He also made us amazing mojitos with mint from his garden and included a bottle of white wine! All that for $10 a person.

Restaurante Sol y Son - Calle Simon Bolivar #283

Great food and atmosphere and the most romantic live music. Very reasonable prices.

La Botija - Calle Amargura 71

Probably to most "Hip" place in Trinidad. Get their early as it gets really busy.

What to do

Disco Ayala

A cool huge cave that was transformed into a famous club. Get there around 11pm when the line is still moderate and even if the line is pretty long, just have fun. Grab a drink from one of the many street vendors, and start chatting with people from all around the world that are standing in line just like you. Pro Tip: Entrance is $5 per person but KEEP your receipt as it is a free drink voucher at the bar inside the club. It doesn't say it anywhere so it only way to know it is word of mouth. :)

Rent bicycles

Your casa mostly likely has some for rent fro very cheap. Venture outside of Trinidad and go lay and relax on one of the many beaches along the coast. It is truly a beautiful ride. Pro Tip: The locals might recommend "Playa Ancon" as the "best beach" but to be honest, it is the furthest away and it is a large touristy beach with a hotel besides it. I personally think one of the smaller, almost private beaches along the way (long before Playa Ancon) are a much better option.

Visit Parque Natural Topes de Collantes

e recommend doing so with HavanaTour, they have an office in Trinidad and they offer many different tours. We oped in for the Guanayara tour for $55 per person. It was well worth it. You are picked up from your casa around 8:30am in a jeep with 2-3 other travelers (again a great way to make friends) and you are back in Trinidad around 5pm. The tour includes transportation, a coffee plantation tour, a beautiful hike to one of the many beautiful waterfalls, and great lunch at a local restaurant. You also get to relax and swim in a natural pool mid hike so bring your bathing suit and a towel.

Havana, Cuba

Havana is probably the number one place that comes to mind when thinking about Cuba. It is everything you saw in the movies and more.

Where to stay

My biggest recommendation is to stay in the "Habana Vieja" area. It is old, it is dirty, it sometimes stinks, but that is where all the life is at! There is no better area in Havana in my humble opinion. Why is that?

It is a pretty small and dense area that allows you to get up in the morning, leave your casa, and walk everywhere. Havana is pretty big and if you choose to stay in a different area you will most likely end up spending time and money on cabs back and forth to/from Habana Vieja so why not stay there in the first place?
It is where all the culture is. The colors, structures, museums, art, salsa, coffee shops, mojitos! There isn't a doll moment in Habana Vieja.

Get in touch with Damaris, she has a house in a great location in Habana Vieja and if she is booked she will help you get another great place. She also helped us with transportation and cases in Trinidad and Viñales. A one stop shop! Here is her info:

House Damaris & Yor. Casa Particular, Havana Vieja, Cuba.

Where to eat

El Café - located at Calle Amargura #358 between Aguacate and Villegas.

Located in Habana Vieja, hands down the best coffee and breakfasts in Cuba. We were there almost every morning, do not miss it! The breakfast plate which is delicious and fresh eggs and some vegetables with salt and olive oil is only $2.5! And you must try the Beet-Pinapple juice ($2), you will not regret it. Also great sandwiches for lunch.

Lamparilla Tapas y Cervezas - located at Calle Lamparilla #361 between Aguacate and Villegas.

Located in Habana Vieja, awesome for lunch and diner. Great cocktails and atmosphere. Try the Chicken in curry ($8, comes with rice and beans, probably enough for two), and the house salad which is shredded cabbage with peanut dressing ($5 comes with chicken but better without).

El Dandy - Calle Brasil #401

Located in Habana Vieja, this is a fun neighborhood bar and tapas, try the Cuba Libre (Rum and coke), or their specialty cocktail "Michelada Dandy".

Roma - Located in Habana Vieja, on the west side of Calle Aguacate between O'reilly and San Juan de Dios. I think!

This place is brand new so it cannot be found online yet. It is a very cool rooftop bar. Take the stairs instead of the elevator, this building with all its art is more beautiful than a museum.

La Guarida - Calle Concordia #418, La Habana.

A beautiful restaurant located at the top floor of a beautiful building (a bit hard to find). It is pricier and fancier than most place in Cuba but it is a fun experience. If you want to have dinner there you will probably have to make a reservation. We went for lunch midweek and were seated instantly.

El Cocinero - Calle 26 between Calle 11 and Calle 13. Trust me, you can't miss it. :)

Located about a 25 minute drive from Habana Vieja this is probably to coolest place in Havana. It feels more like you are sitting at a rooftop bar in NYC then in Cuba. It is right next door to "La Fabrica de Arte Cubano" AKA the "FAC", which you will find more info about in the "What to do" section below. El Cocinero gets busy during dinner so try to make a reservation. It would be nice to combine the El Cocinero dining experience with a visit to "FAC" right after. Note that "FAC" is usually only open Thursday-Sunday so check in advance.

What to do

Museo Nacional de Bellas Arte Cubano

Entrance is $5 per person. The art in Cuba in general is truly unb, and this is one of the best places to visit in order to see a large variety of it.

Museo de la Revolucion

Entrance is $8 per person. A must visit to anyone who is interested in learning more about the intense history of Cuba.

La Fabrica de Arte Cubano (FAC)

ntrance is $2 per person, usually open only Thus-Sun from 8pm. Come early to beat the rush. An absolute must visit when in Havana. What is it? It is part Museum, part gallery, part bar, part club, part food venue, part shop. It is huge and interesting and you could spend hours in there. It is located in a repurposed old factory (I heard someone saying it was a cookie dough factory! But then someone else saying it was a salad oil factory).

El Malecon

This is a famous part of Havana from movies and photos. It is an interesting place where urbanism (read: a highway) meets the mighty ocean without much of a cushion or advanced warning. Grab a beer from a nearby place, watch the beautiful sunset, and enjoy the local scene.

How to Travel to Cuba: A Guide for Americans (and everyone else)

Cuba, oh Cuba...what a place. The colors, the scents, the nature, the art, the people! But don't get me wrong, it takes a few minutes (or days) to get acclimated, though once you do—it will be the adventure of a lifetime. If in most places around the world light, pre-trip research would suffice. When it comes to Cuba I actually recommend a more in-depth preparation that includes saving info offline (your phones "notes" would work), and maybe taking some screen shots. While it is not as bad as some describe, Internet is still not easily available in Cuba and therefore having information about what areas of Cuba you want to explore, transportation options, money practices, Museum addresses and hours, restaurants, etc. will come extremely handy.

Traveling to Cuba with an American passport is a bit different. Let me start by saying that it is NOT AN ISSUE at all, super easy. However, it is very helpful to be prepared in advance. Here you will find all the information that you need to know—READ: information that is hard/impossible to find online or elsewhere. You're welcome.

IS IT LEGAL FOR AMERICANS TO TRAVEL TO CUBA?

Many Americans are still having a hard time figuring out whether they may or may not travel to Cuba, and you can't really blame anyone. The current regulations and process (as of December 2016) are vague, to say the least. Luckily for you, we (and many other American travelers) went through the experience first hand and are back to share it with you. So, is it legal to travel to Cuba? The answer is YES, but with a "catch". From the U.S. Embassy in Cuba website: "Travel to Cuba for tourist activities remains prohibited by statute". However, the Department of Treasury’s Office of Foreign Assets Control (OFAC) has issued general licenses for 12 categories of travel. Here is the LINK to the U.S. Embassy's site.

Now, it is very IMPORTANT to understand the following:

The 12 categories vary from journalistic activity (which we chose based on our travel site), to educational activity, religious activity, humanitarian activity, etc. As you can tell, those are very open to interpretation. Anyone can find a category that is relevant for them.
Note that the only time you will be asked for the category that you are traveling under is when you book your flight online. Other than that no one asks, no one cares, no one checks. Not when you leave the U.S. to fly to Cuba, not when you arrive in Cuba, and not when you fly back to the U.S.
I heard previous reports that Cuban immigration officers ask American passport holders if they would like to be stamped on the Visa card instead of the passport so they won't be asked any questions when getting back home. We weren't asked that, our passports were stamped, and we had ZERO problems.
We saw and met hundreds of American travelers in Cuba, even lots of families! So book your trip and have fun!

IS IT SAFE IN CUBA?

We never felt unsafe while traveling in Cuba. They also really love Americans and many times you will see American flags along side Cuban flags (like in most taxis for example). The only thing that is not safe in Cuba is drinking water. Always drink bottled water.

SHOULD I GO BEFORE TOURISM TAKES OVER?

Well, you should go soon, but not because of the tourism question. Cuba has been a hot traveling destination for years, so it's already quite "touristy". Tons of people from Europe, Asia, Latin America, and everywhere in between have been traveling to Cuba for a while. So, why should you go soon? Right now Cuba is still VERY much communist which makes for a lot of its magic. The life-style, the culture, the old cars, houses, stores, it will all change (not taking a side if for better or worse, it will just be different) in case politics will change. And to be honest, with Fidel Castro's recent death and his more "progressive" brother, Raul Castro in charge, plus the recent changes that the Obama Administration put in place, it smells like CHANGE is indeed in the air.

CAN I FLY DIRECTLY FROM THE U.S.?

Absolutely, yes! Unfortunately I think that 100% of the Americans we had the chance to talk to were too misinformed and booked flights to Mexico or elsewhere first and then from there to Cuba. Such a hassle (unless you spend a few days in Mexico for fun before flying to Cuba).

We flew direct from Miami to Havana with Frontier Airlines for around $100 each, and the flight duration was 45 minutes! No issues whatsoever. Many U.S. Airlines including JetBlue and American Airlines fly direct to Cuba.
It is important to note that as of December of 2016, the Visa cost is more expensive if you fly direct from the U.S. From Cancun, for example, it should cost you around $25 per person—while we paid a steep $100 each. It is worth mentioning that the cost may vary between airports and airlines, and to be honest, we got the sense that it's all quite new for the U.S. and that airlines are charging whatever they feel like at the moment. The best way to find out is to call and ask the airline before or after you book your flight.
PRO TIP: Most of the time you literally buy your visa at the check-in counter. This means that you will probably not be able to check-in online— even if you travel with only a carry-on, like ourselves. So what should you do? You should arrive at the airport early because the line is likely going to be longer than you are used to. Plus, make sure to ask an airline representative if you buy the visa to Cuba at their counter or elsewhere before you stand in line (or if you have a partner, one should secure your place in line and the other should ask). We flew Frontier and found out only at the counter (after 1.5 hours in line) that they want us to walk 10 minutes away to the American Airlines counters and buy our visas there.

The Cuban visa card you need to buy and fill out

IS THERE INTERNET SERVICE IN CUBA?

The answer is yes! But getting online isn't going to be as luxurious as you are probably used to. It also isn't free and will cost you about $4-$5 for one hour and twenty minutes. Here is everything you need to know:

Unless you are staying at a hotel, which you totally should not! (See the Accommodation section below), there is almost no chance that you will have Internet at "home".
Internet spots are usually at parks and hotels.
Hotels are usually pretty good with letting people hangout in their lobby for internet. Out of many times we hung-out in hotel lobbies, we were told only once that we had to be customers of the hotel or bar if we wanted to stay. So we bought a Mojito for $3, why not? ;)
It is ridiculously easy to spot a hot-spot based on the gathering of dozens and sometimes hundreds of people who are "glued" to their phones.
How to connect? First you will have to buy an Internet card that looks like this:

You can buy this card from an ETECSA center (their telecommunication company) or from any hotel's lobby desk. I recommend buying with the hotels, as those ETECSA centers always feature incredibly long lines of both locals and tourists and sometimes also run out of cards in the middle of the day, go figure... Note that the cost of a 1 hour card is about $2.5 at the ETECSA center and between $4-$6 at a hotel, depending on the hotel. But in my opinion it is worth not having to stand for an hour in line and risk the chance that they've run out.
The cards are advertised as "1 hour" but in reality give you 1h20m. I guess the extra 20 minutes helps to make up for the lost time when you try to logout and can't figure out how, or when the Internet service is spotty and your minutes are still counting down.
Interent service is not as smooth or as fast, but it works and you get used to it. Remember my recommendation of researching in advance and recording your findings offline? (Screen shots, notes, etc.)? Do it.
The card is pretty self-explanatory but here are some tips that will really help:

After you purchase a card, scratch of the designated area to expose your password and find a WiFi area (if you purchased at a hotel, the hotels lobby will have internet). PRO TIP: if anyone gets their hands (or eyes) on your username and password, they will be able to use your card—so be discreet.
The WiFi network that you are looking for is "ETECSA WIFI". If you can't find it, wait a few minutes and try again, or try moving around a bit.
Once you choose the network be PATIENT. A window with an ETECSA or NAUTA page will pop up and will ask you to enter your username and password. Sometimes you will have to enter it twice even if the first time was correct. Again, patience is a virtue in Cuba. But then, voila! You're logged in and the clock will start counting down from 1h20m. PRO TIP: To save time, prepare your Instagram photo and caption in advance, or anything else you plan to do online.
Troubleshooting: if you waited 20-30 seconds after choosing the WiFi network and the automatic window never popped up, try going to Safari or any internet browser you use and enter a random address like "www.apple.com". Hopefully the ETECSA page will appear in your browser. If that didn't work as well. Turn the WiFi off for a minute and then turn on and repeat the steps.
How to logout? This is much more cumbersome than it should be so again, patience. In some cases you won't be able to find the ETECSA page to do it. If you ARE able to find it, just hit the "Cerrar la sesión" ("Close session"). If not, turn your wifi off and on and check if you can still use the internet. If that doesn't work, turn your device off and then turn it back on. From there, check if you can still get online. Turning the device off and on should always work. I read in some places that entering the following web address (http://1.1.1.1) should take you to the ETECSA page where you can logout but it never worked for me.
NO. Two people can't login at the same time with the same card/user. You will have to buy two cards.

MONEY

What a topic! Cuba is probably the place where there is the most to discuss when it comes to MONEY! So, here it is:

There are two completely different currencies in Cuba. CUC (Convertible Cuban Peso) and CUP (Cuban Peso).
Both currencies are widely used, even by locals.
1 USD = 1 CUC. Easy, and don't worry, Cuba is still much cheaper than most western countries. A good accommodation will cost around $30 (30 CUC) or less, a mojito will cost 3 CUC, a good meal with drinks is under 10 CUC per person. You get the idea.
1 CUC = 24 CUP. Why not just use CUP? Isn't the CUC just "Tourist currency" and I won't I get screwed over? The answer is no. Not unless you plan on literally living like a local and buying only eggs and chicken from the markets without ever eating out. You will use CUC 99% of the time if not 100%. Even the locals use it. The restaurants, hotels, local accommodations, etc. everyone prices services in CUC, charges in CUC, and gives change in CUC.
IMPORTANT: American credit and debit cards will not work (as of December 2016) anywhere in Cuba. So be sure to take enough cash with you so you don't get stuck. Keep in mind that you don't have to exchange all of it. Just have it for an emergency.
Also nice to know: as of December 2016 (there are talks about it changing), exchanging USD in Cuba comes with an extra government enforced 10% fee. So if you have or can get foreign currency in advance it will save you some money. I believe the best currency to exchange there is in Euros, if you can get your hands on them in advance.
Exchanging at the airport when you land is easy. If you need to exchange again during your trip go to any bank but plan on spending an hour in line at least. Cuba has the local nickname, "THE COUNTRY OF LOST TIME"—as everything is very slow and laid back, and there is almost always a line.
IMPORTANT: If you do exchange money at a bank, make sure to bring your PASSPORT with you or else you won't be able to exchange.

MONEY SCAMS

Like anywhere around the world, you should get to know the currency and be aware of some common scams. With Cuba's dual-currency system however, things become a bit more tricky. A good way of telling the difference between the two currencies is to know and remember the following: CUC (higher value) = Monuments on the bill, CUP (lower value) = People on the bill.

Top: 10 CUC ($10), Bottom: 10 CUP (less than 50 cents).

So what should you be most careful of:

Paying in CUC and getting change in CUP (always check your change).
Paying in CUC and then being told that you paid in CUP (always make sure and be confident that you paid in CUC). Example: you will pay a taxi driver 12 CUC (10 bill and two single bills). He's sitting in the front of the car with his hands outside of your vision. He quickly switches your 10 CUC bill to a 10 CUP bill that he had ready in advance. He then turns around and claims that you accidentally gave him a 10 CUP bill. Unless you listened to my advice and were certain that you paid in CUC, it will be hard to argue. They will usually do it at night when it is more confusing and hard to see and most likely when several bills are involved in the transaction. You're welcome. :)

ACCOMADATION

The most popular accommodation option in Cuba, which I believe is also the best possible way to experience Cuba, are the CASAS PARTICULARES. What is a "Casa Particular"? It is basically a Cuban family's house that is licensed to rent rooms. It isn't fancy by any means but if "fancy" is what you seek, Cuba might not be the right choice in general. Here is why I believe a Casa Particular is the best option in Cuba, at least for now:

It is cheap ($20-$30 per night).
Most of the time you're allotted a private section in the house, with private bathroom and shower, towels, toiletries, and everything else you need for a simple, comfortable stay.
The hosts will make you breakfast and dinner upon request. It will be an extra cost (average of $5 per person for breakfast and $10 for dinner), but many times it is cheaper and even tastier than the restaurants.
You get to experience the life of a local first-hand AND practice your Spanish, which is worth money on its own!
The hosts will help you with everything you need, from recommendations of local restaurants and bars, to organizing transportation from/to the airport as well as other cities in Cuba, to setting you up with accommodations in the other cities, and sometimes even exchanging money for great rates! This is all priceless in Cuba where internet is scarce and you can rarely find or book anything online.
If there are multiple rooms in the house you get to meet other travelers and make awesome friends!
Hotels are usually really expansive (minimum of $200 per night) for lousy quality. The hotels are run by the government.
Is AIRBNB operating in Cuba? Actually it is. But the selection is currently limited and most of the time it's a little more expansive than a Casa Particular without all the perks of having a local host.
PRO TIP: Note that once you are in Cuba, you will not be able to book on Airbnb, some regulation prevents Airbnb from allowing you to book from within Cuba. You can still browse and then get in touch with friends or family in the U.S. or elsewhere to help you book if you have to.

How to find and book a Casa Particular?

We will share a few great options that we stayed at in Havana and Trinidad in this guide. You can also find a bunch of them on Trip Advisor and other websites and email the hosts (just google "casa particular Cuba"). Alternatively, if you are more adventurous, and travel light, it is not a problem to arrive in Cuba and find one instantly. Ask locals around and look for this sign:

TRANSPORTATION AND NAVIGATION

I believe there are two international airports in Cuba but you will most likely land in José Martí International Airport (HAV) in Havana. It is about 30 minutes from the center of Havana or Habana Vieja (old town). If you booked a place in advance, ask them to help you with transportation from the airport and provide them with your flight info. It might be a little more expensive ($30 vs. $20-$25 if you negotiate upon arrival), but it might be worth the "smooth landing" for the first time.
Remember to have the address of your accommodation handy offline, as you will not have internet.
SUPER PRO TIP: download offline maps of the areas you plan to travel in (Havana, Viñales, Trinidad, etc.) on the Google Maps App. Click HERE for instructions. If you can't find the download button, just tap the menu button on your Google maps app, choose the third option ("Offline Areas"), hit "Custom Area" and zoom out and scroll to the area in Cuba you would like to have available offline and hit Download. If you get a message that "the area isn't available offline", zoom out a bit. It should work. What does having an offline area mean? It means that you will be able to see where you are and navigate even without internet connection. Your GPS (that blue dot on the map) works even with Airplane mode turned on and cellular data turned off. Furthermore, you can find museums, restaurants, internet spots, bars, etc, in advance on Google maps and add flags known as "labels" (here is how) and that way you will be able to navigate to those places even without internet. Still have a question? Get in touch and I will help. :)
Generally however, I recommend having the exact addresses of the stores and restaurants you want to visit in Cuba handy. Online map locations aren't always accurate in Cuba.
For your flight back, get to the airport early. Locals recommend at least 3 hours in advance and I recommend even 3.5 hours to beat the rush of people coming 3 hours in advance, it will pay off. Remember reading that Cuba is the "Country of Lost Time"? Just trust me and get there early.
Taxis in Cuba can be a bit pricey in comparison to other things. They are around $10 to move around areas in Havana. SUPER PRO TIP: An awesome "secret" that not many know is the "Collectivo" Taxi service in Havana. If you can speak some Spanish and don't mind riding with locals, it is a great and extremely cheap option. What is this Taxi Collectivo? Taxis that drive back and forth along main streets and pick up and drop people off along the way upon request. The cost is set and it is 10 CUP per person, don't let anyone tell you otherwise. If you don't have CUP (local currency), it is 0.5 CUC per person (that's 50 cents!). So how to do it? Stand on the street and flag your hand for a taxi like you would in NYC. You can also see other locals flagging for taxis. Those "collectivo" taxis are usually the old classic cars you see in photos or the movies. When the driver stops for you, ask "collectivo?" and tell him where you want to be dropped off along the way, if it makes sense with his route he will tell you to get in. When he drops you off just hand the 10 CUP/0.5 CUC and leave. Do not ask how much! The price is set.

Transportation between cities in Cuba:

Best way in my opinion is again "Collectivo" taxi service. It is a bit different than the city ones I described above as this service will pick you up from your casa/hotel and drop you off at your casa/hotel in the next city. It is called collectivo because you share the ride with other travelers. This is an awesome way to meet new people! We made tons of friends.
Your host can help you booking this taxi service.
The cost from Havana to Trinidad, or the other way around (about a 4 hour ride) is around $30 per person. To put things in perspective, same car and same ride only without the other travelers (private) would cost you around $160.
The cost from Trinidad to Viñales, or the other way around (about a 6 hour ride!) is around $40 per person.
The cost from Havana to Viñales, or the other way around (about a 2 hour ride!) is around $15 per person.

LANGUAGE

To be honest, Spanish is really helpful in Cuba, as most people don't speak English and most restaurant menus are exclusively in Spanish. It doesn't have to be perfect Spanish though (ours isn't)! If you speak zero Spanish don't worry, many travelers don't and do just fine. Hopefully you are open to learn, laugh, and use some body language. :) Here are some tips that can help a lot:

Take a few Spanish classes in advance (nothing fancy), an app would do. I highly recommend Babbel. You can also download classes and continue learning offline in Cuba! With Babbel you do have to pay a little for a subscription but it is worth it. This app is really awesome and took my Spanish to the next level! If you are looking for a free option, Duolingo is also great.
Download the Google Translate App and then be sure to download the offline Spanish dictionary in advance. You will be able to translate even without internet! Here is how.
Be patient, positive and keep an open mind. Find the fun in miscommunication. It's bound to happen.

NETFLIX

As you may know, Netflix now has an option of downloading movies and series for offline watching. Best thing ever for flights and countries with no internet! :)

CIGARS

Many people will try to sell you cigars on the street. It is illegal and most of the time those are fake and are made with banana leaves or other ingredients that are not tobacco. Best way to buy cigars accompanied with an amazing experience? Visit Viñales where all the tobacco farms are at. You will get to meet the farmers and learn about the process first hand, and smoke hand rolled cigars (sometimes dipped in honey or whisky, which is an amazing tradition). They will also sell the real deal for about $3 a cigar (instead of much more elsewhere). Usually they will have a minimum purchase of about 20 cigars. They say it is legal to come back to the U.S. with up to $100 worth of cigars per person. You can learn more about Viñales below.

RUMORS

If you heard online or elsewhere about there being an "Exit Fee" or "Tax" at the airport when leaving Cuba, don't worry there isn't. There may have been in the past.
Another thing we heard is that Cuba requires proof of travel insurance prior to entering. While we do always recommend travel insurance (we use WorldNomads), no one asked us or anyone else for insurance at any point.

WHERE SHOULD YOU GO IN CUBA?

We spent 11 days in Cuba, starting in Havana for 3 nights, then Trinidad for 3 nights, from there to Viñales for 2 nights and then back to Havana for the last 2 nights. It worked pretty well. If you are into some Caribbean beach time then be sure to visit Varadero as well. We spent a full week at the beach in Turks & Caicos prior to arriving in Cuba so we skipped Varadero. Click on an area below to learn where to stay, what to do, where to eat, and more!

Havana

Trinidad

Viñales

Why San Cristobal de las Casas Should be Added to Your Bucket List

Located in the Mexican state of "Chiapas", San Cristobal de las Casas is a magical little mountain town. If you want to immerse yourself in local Mexican life, this is the perfect place. It still has the innocence of a rural village, unpolluted by modern tourism.

GETTING AROUND

There is an international airport called Angel Albino Corzo (TGZ). It is about a 1-hour taxi drive from San Cristobal de las Casas. While the airport is called TGZ after Tuxtla Gutierrez, the capital of Chiapas, it is located outside of Tuxtla (about a 35 minute drive south) so don't let this get you confused.
There are taxi counters at the exit of the airport and transportation to San Cristobal should cost you around 800 Mexican Pesos (around $40).

MONEY

Local currency: at the time of writing this the exchange rate for 1 USD is 20.70 MP (Mexican Pesos). Click here for the current exchange rate.
Getting local currency: As always, I find it best to withdraw money from the ATM—you're bound to get the best exchange rates. Be sure to inform your bank of your travel plans.
Credit cards aren't widely accepted so be sure to carry cash.
Cost of living is very low in comparison to what we know in the States. We've had great meals for under $20 for two (including alcohol), and experienced an amazing accommodation in the perfect village location for around $40 per night.

CULTURAL TIPS

Get ready to practice your Spanish, big time. While it is a relatively well-toured place, most of the people do not speak English very well and it is also rare to find menus in English at restaurants. A great tip (if you don't plan on buying a data plan for your phone) would be to download google translate and download the "offline" Spanish translator. As you might guess, it works even when you don't have cell service.
Expect lots of beautiful kids and some sweet old ladies walking around the streets attempting to sell you their crafts. They mostly sell things for a few USD at most, sometimes a few cents. Many times, we just gave them money, as we don't really need, nor have the space for extra knickknacks. :) Although the exchange rate can be deceiving, remember that most of the time it is very little money to you and a lot to them. If you aren't interested, usually a no-thank-you will suffice...but sometimes it does take 10 "no-thank-you's" before they take the hint. If you prefer not to be approached as often, you should prevent eye-contact and choose to sit indoors/not on the curbside of the street.

Where to stay

Casa Francisco

Check prices and availability

We highly recommend staying in the center of San Cristobal de las Casas. The village center is quaint and magical, and staying here makes it easy to walk everywhere. We also like to stay at airbnb's vs. hotels mostly for the fun of immersing ourselves in the local culture. With the airbnb route, you find yourself having to seek out the nearest pharmacy/grocery store/coffee shop and by doing so, you practice the language more often. We stayed at a place that a local family renovated solely for the purpose of short term rentals. We cannot recommend this place enough! They have 4 apartments (we got to see them all and actually stay in two of them), each one is more beautiful than the next. The apartments are newly renovated but still maintain the local style and culture. They are beautifully equipped and furnished with unique pieces that have been hand-picked throughout Mexico by Jose, the son who is responsible for the design. Fun fact: each family member has a responsibility: the father for the maintenance, the mother for the accounting etc. How awesome is that? To top it all off, the beds and linens are extremely pampering.

Where to eat

Napoli

Hands down the best Italian restaurant we've ever ate in (we haven't been to Italy yet, but soon!). The owner is actually from southern Italy (surprisingly not from Naples but from Potenza) and he makes the best pasta. Definitely try the pesto pasta, they ask if you want it al dente and your answer should be "YES".

Krocante Pizza

A breath of fresh air in the mostly traditional San Cristobal. These guys came from Mexico City to disrupt (in the best of ways) the food scene in town. Their specialty is their very unique and eclectic pizzas. Be sure to also ask for the Coconut-Rum drink (yes, it is as good as it sounds).

Tierra y Cielo

Another great restaurant (on the pricier side compared to most of the local joints, but still extremely affordable in U.S. terms). A chef's restaurant by a young up-and-coming Mexican chef.

Tonantzin

Located on the main street Real de Guadalupe, take a seat at one of the tables outside and enjoy the colorful scenery. Great for breakfasts.

Intervino

Cool place to enjoy a glass (or a bottle) of wine and some snacks.

What to do

Explore the many unique (and affordable) museums in San Cristobal:

Na Bolom 45 pesos (around $2)
Mayan Medicine Museum 25 pesos (around $1)
Museum of Textile 55 pesos (around $2.5)
Cacao Museum 30 pesos (around $1.25)

Calle Real de Guadalupe

Explore the many shops and restaurants along San Cristobal's main street, and don't forget to explore all the side streets as well, most of the magic lies in there.

Taller Lenateros

This great shop features extremely unique hand-made Mayan paper crafts such as wall art, journals, gift cards, and more.

Explore the rest of the beautiful state of Chiapas

Step in to any of the local tourist offices that are scattered around San Cristobal and book one or multiple excursions. San Cristobal de las Casas is a common "home-base" for those who are interested in discovering the beauty of the rest of the state. And you should. Some worthwhile activities are as close as a 30 minutes drive and the prices range from as low as $9 per person.

We randomly chose an agency called "Descubre Chiapas" which is located at Real de Guadalupe 54 and were happy with their service. They will pick you up from your hotel/airbnb. Note that the guides don't really speak English.

Some of the options are:

Visit the Sumidero Canyon by a boat (2 hours), which is absolutely majestic. And have lunch in a nearby town. 9am-3pm. 300mp per person (approx. $14).
Visit a special old town called San Juan Chamula (horse riding or walking)- 200-250mp per person ($9-$12).
Visit "Palenque" where there said to be the most unique ruins in all of Mexico. 5am-10pm. 450mp per person ($21).

Halong Bay

Halong Bay is a magical place to visit. There are so many options and ways to tour the area, from a quick one-day tour, to a few days at sea in a luxurious boat. We actually believe we found the best way of experiencing this beautiful wonder.

NOTE: There are hundreds of companies out there that offer a Halong Bay tour at different price levels and itineraries. Personally, we felt that a one-day tour would feel too rushed considering we were coming from, and wanted to get back to, Hanoi, which is about a 3-4 hour drive away from Halong City harbor. That is why we chose a 2 day-1 night private tour with a company called Eco Friendly Vietnam. Cost: $460 for a couple with pick-up and drop-off in Hanoi. Note that the price gets cheaper per person the more people you have in your group, but if it's just the two of you you will have the ship to yourself, plus 3 members of the crew!

The benefits:

You get picked up from your hotel with a private driver and then take a speed boat from Hai Phong to Cat Ba Island. This is the faster, less crowded departure point into Halong Bay.
You get to have Halong Bay (almost) all to yourself! As mentioned above, with the purpose of avoiding the hundreds of other boats and thousands of tourists that tour Halong Bay daily, we left from an island called Cat Ba instead of Halong. The views are spectacular, and they are all yours.
You get to sail through beautiful private beaches and kayak locations while the other companies stick to the tourist-heavy stops.
The ship is private to your party! That means you can pretty much do whatever you want, whenever you want. We got to spend hours swimming through the Bay and enjoyed private beaches, where it was literally just the two of us.
The atmosphere is less "strict" without compromising safety. You can jump from any part of the boat as many times as you want, and you don't have to wear a life jacket (when kayaking for example). We also used our drone whenever we felt like it.
The food is really good, fresh and flavorful. They prepared one of the best whole fish dishes we've ever had. The crew will also make sure to fit the menu to any food restrictions or preferences.
With the boat's crew of 3 (normally a captain, a cook/porter, and a tour guide, who speaks English very well, might we add!), you will get real stories about the local life around the Bay. We also got to try some homemade rice wine that our captain brought as a gift from his home town, and sampled smoking local tobacco using a traditional bamboo pipe (we aren't really smokers but you know, "when in Halong Bay, do as the Bay-ers do!).
At the end of the tour there is an added perk: you go to visit Cat Ba's "Hospital Cave", which is a spectacular historical site that was dug and built by the Vietnamese during the American-Vietnam war. The cave has 4 floors and countless rooms including security rooms, operation rooms, dining and meeting rooms, and even bathrooms and army training spaces. It's fascinating to see!

Things to note:

No WiFi on board ships in Halong Bay- enjoy an off-the-grid experience.
While the bedroom on the EFV ship is large with a comfortable bed, it is not luxurious by any means. In the room you will have: solar-powered electricity and a bathroom with a sink, shower, and toilet. Note, however, that there is no AC. Instead, two wall fans will be your best buds if you want a cooler sleep. While it can get a bit hot and humid at night, keeping the windows open ensures a nice breeze. Thankfully, we didn't run into any mosquitos but we did use bug spray at night just in case. On that note, I t is definitely recommended that you bring bug spray.

To summarize:

If your goal is to stay on a budget and simply see Halong Bay to check it off the list, we believe one of the day tours will suffice. However, if you are interested in making your Halong Bay visit a unique and awesome life experience, take our recommendation and go book yourself a private tour. There are also 3 day-two night options available, though we thought the 2-day, 1-night option was perfect.

Best and worst times to visit Halong Bay:

Spring (March-April) and Fall (September-October) are known as the best times to visit due to the cooler, more comfortable weather. While we can't always predict what mother-nature has in store, especially at sea, we visited in mid-September and had an amazing time. It was sunny and the water temperature was perfect. We were also told by our guide that we were lucky not to visit during the jellyfish season (May-June-July).

Hanoi

Hanoi's old quarter is full of great local restaurants, coffee shops, art stores, and clothing and gift shops. If you stay in the old quarter you can easily walk everywhere and spend hours strolling the streets and enjoying the hustle and bustle of Hanoi.

Where to stay

Eco Hotel

Check prices and availability

A solid choice at an unbeatable price. From $29 per night.

O'gallery Premier Hotel & Spa

Check prices and availability

We highly recommend this hotel, the service is flawless, the rooms are new and large and the location is as good as it gets.

Where to eat

Zenith

A yoga studio with a great vegetarian restaurant. Healthy shakes, breakfasts and lunch. Try the caramelized zucchini and black bean veggie burger.

The Hanoi Social Club

A cool restaurant/coffee shop with solid WiFi. They have a pretty international menu with something for everyone. Try their IPA and finish with the Babka cake!

MUM

Our favorite spot in Hanoi! A true local experience with some truly amazing Vietnamese food. Take a seat on the stools on the street, they say that "the lower the seat the cheaper the food" and it is true, the place is pretty cheap. Try the broken rice with chicken drum sticks, or the Shabu if you really want to eat like a local.

What to do

Night Market

No better way to experience the hassle and bastle of Hanoi's vibrant night life than walking around the many street vendors that block whole streets at night.

Hoi An- Ancient Town

It's a great feeling to get a break from the big city vibes and get back to country-side life. Easiest way to get to Hoi An is flying to Da Nang -- from there it is only about a 40 minute drive and costs around $15.

The real magic of Hoi An's old town comes out at night, so be sure not to skip out on it. Pro tip: there are ticket offices that sell tours on the streets that lead into the old town, and some of them will try to scam you and tell you that you can't "get into town" without a ticket. Just ignore them and keep walking.

Where to stay

Loc Phat Home Stay

Check prices and availability

This family-owned homestay is being run by the most wonderful people. The private rooms are spacious and comfortable. It is a 5 minute scooter ride (rent at the hotel for $5 per day) to Hoi An's old town, and 10 minutes to XXX beach. If you prefer, you can rent and ride bicycles ($1 per day).

Where to eat

Cocobox

There are a few of these around Hoi An's old town. Fun and laid-back atmosphere with a good, simple menu that includes shakes, sandwiches and salads. Vegan and vegetarian options here as well.

Ganesh

If you feel like taking a short break from Vietnamese cuisine this Indian joint is the best place to do it. Really awesome Indian food!

What to do

Buy yourself a custom suit

Hoi An is known for its many master-tailors that can turn around a custom-made, well-fitted suit within a day or two at a bargain price. It is the perfect opportunity to get yourself covered for that upcoming event.

Heaven and Earth Bike Tour

An awesome experience that will give you an inside look into the local life on the tiny islands around the city of Hoi An. If you're hankering to dive into culture with some light bike riding, this one is definitely for you. First, you will take a boat to the tour's starting point from which you will ride your bicycle through the villages, stopping along the way to learn about local practices and professions: a 96 year old woman still hand-weaves and sells Vietnamese sleeping mats, a local man makes rice wine for the entire village, and a few more surprises we will save for you to discover. Cost: $17 per person or XXX for a morning tour that includes a local lunch.

Ho Chi Minh (Saigon)

Ho Chi Minh City is a vibrant, interesting place and should definitely be explored during your time in Vietnam. It is a vast and busy city that at times makes New York feel like a small, quiet town.

Where to stay

Mai-Sky's awesome Airbnb

Check prices and availability

We stayed in two of Mai-Sky's apartments in HCMC and they are definitely amazing options for anyone who is looking for a great, central locations with a chic, local feel. A huge plus is the over-the-top service, which included city tips and guides as well as a free WiFI hotspot to take with you while touring the city. Approx. $44 per night. She also has bigger places you may want to check for more $$$.

Where to eat

L'usine

HCMC has tones of French influence, from its beautiful architecture to some of the food. This French-owned restaurant is a great example of that. Awesome menu and tasty French flavors. Pro tip: The restaurant is located on the second floor and the entrance is through a "hard-to-find" alley, so don't give up if you miss it at first.

Secret Garden

Great authentic Vietnamese cuisine. Tasty stir fries. Beautiful rooftop view of HCMC.

Hum

Do not let their 100 page menu fool you, this vegetarian restaurant is one of the best we've ever had. Ever. And their cocktails! An absolute must-have: Cinnamon and Star Anise Spiced Margarita. Seriously. And an additional plus is the service - they have the sweetest manager and staff.

Workshop Coffee

True to its name, this place is a work hub for many of Ho Chi Minh's freelancers. It is a great place for breakfast and some artisanal pour-over coffee while catching up on some online reading or work. Coffee culture in this place tops most places you can find in NYC or SF.

What to do

Back of the bike tours

Do yourself a huge favor and do not miss their street food night tour! It was one of the best experiences we've had during our travels. The "tour guides" who also drive the scooters with you in the back seat are young local girls that are sweet, knowledgable, and attentive beyond words can describe. Plus, they give you a real peek into the local Vietnamese life and food culture. We learned a lot of fun facts and even some Vietnamese slang! On the tour, you get to visit some of HCMC's most authentic and off-the-beaten-path food spots, and everything is absolutely delicious. A few other team members drive alongside you throughout this 4 hour tour and take care of you like royalty -- including constant hand sanitizer before meals, beers, and photographs. Pro tip: when booking you have the option to add $30 per person in order to make the tour "private" instead of possibly being accompanied by other people on the same tour. This is a completely unnecessary expense, as each individual gets their own driver/tour guide and the experience is nothing less than exclusive anyhow.

Cost $67 per person, worth every cent. Duration: 4 hours.

XO Tours

Another awesome company with an equally awesome staff. We opted for their morning Site-Seeing Tour and had a blast. Highlights include: Getting to meet and chat with the sweetest 86 year old legend, who has been working at the city's Central Post Office for 70 years, since he was 16! Visiting the intersection and monument where the Buddhist monk burnt himself to death in protest against the [...]. A very sad, very moving site to this day. We also stopped in HCMC's largest food market right at lunch time. This is THE place for a peek into real Vietnamese city life.

Cost: $34 per person. Duration: 3 hours.

What we didn't have time to do but is worth exploring:

Visiting the Mekong Delta in the south (4 hour drive so might be worth spending more than one day there).
The historic Cu Chi Tunnels (about an hour and a half drive from HCMC).
American War Museum

Have fun and comment below or email us with any questions or feedback!

Vietnam Travel Guide

Vietnam is a large country. Even a month won't be enough to explore all of its beauty. We spent two weeks in Vietnam and will definitely be back. We didn't want to run around like chickens without heads trying to push as much as we can into the two weeks so we focused on 3 main places in Vietnam, we started in the south (Ho Chi Minh), and made our way north through Hoi An Ancient Town and then checked out to Thailand through Hanoi. Below you will find awesome recommendations and tips, all of which we've collected first hand.

Streets filled with scooters in Ho Chi Minh, Vietnam.

GETTING AROUND

Visa: American citizens need to obtain a visa in order to enter Vietnam. While a pretty simple process, it is one of the only countries in East Asia that requires a visa and some planning in advance. You first must obtain a pre-approval visa letter from a Vietnamese agent in Vietnam, it may sound complicated but this is a very standard and straight forward process and there are many different companies that provide this service and can be found online. We used a www.vietnamvisa.com and paid $17 per person. The turn around time was 3 days and you can opt for a "rush" service at an extra cost. You will have to provide them with your nationality, full name, DOB, and passport number/expiration date, as well as purpose of visit and address of where you plan to stay. Once you get the letter in the mail they will include instructions. They also offer a service where an agent of theirs will meet you upon arrival at the airport and will help you thorough the visa obtaining process, this service is unnecessary. Make sure to print your letter and also have one passport photo available to provide the visa agent with (they do have a photo service at the airport but it is probably expansive and will be a hassle). Lastly, it is wise to carry US dollars for the visa payment as their exchange rate if paid in local currency can be poor. Now, how much do they charge for the visa? A steep $135 per person. It used to be $25 for a one month single entry visa but effective September 1st, 2016 they changed it to $135 for a one year multiple entries visa. Although you may not need this extensive option, you don't really have a choice, it is the only one at the moment. Read more about Vietnam visa policies for all nationalities here. Don't be discouraged by the airport's officers strict and cold attitude, it gets better the moment you step out of the airport.
Main international airports in Vietnam: Tan Son Nhat International Airport (SGN) in Ho Chi MInh (South Vietnam), Da Nang International Airport (DAD) in Da Nang (Central Vietnam), and Noi Bai International Airport (HAN) in Hanoi (North Vietnam).
VietJet Airlines is a low cost airline in Vietnam, we used it several times and it was great. Domestic flights are around $50 each.
Two most reliable taxi companies: Vinasun and Mai Linh.
Best option from Airport to your hotel is probably a private car company called Songviet. Booking in advance will get you 30% discount.
Uber is operating in Vietnam.
In the big cities, do not wear any fancy jewelry or easy-to-grab bags and be careful when using your phone on the street, there are thrives on motorbikes that may try to snatch it out of your hand.
I do not reccomend renting a motorbike in the big cities. It is to busy/risky. Taxis are pretty cheap and walking around is easy.

MONEY

Local currency: at the time of writing this the exchange rate for 1 USD is 22,300 VND (Vietnamese Dong). Click here for current exchange rate.
The Vietnamese 10,000 and 100,000 (LINK) bills are similar in color. We met two different people that accidentally gave a few 100,000 (about $4.5 each) bills instead of 10,000 (about 45 cents each). Unfortunately, in most cases they won't mention the mistake and will pocket the extra cash, so be sure to be careful and take your time when paying.
Getting local currency: I find it best to withdraw money from the ATM. Usually best exchange rates. Be sure to inform your bank of your travel plans.
Credit cards are widely accepted with a surcharge of 2%-4%.
Cost of living is low in comparison to what we know. We've had great meals for under $10 (for two including alcohol) and awesome accommodations for $20-$50 per night.
If you plan to exchange foreign currency at one of the counters at the airport, definitely do not settle on the first offer you get. Know the correct exchange rate in advance and negotiate to the closest rate. Jump between the counters, one of them will gives you the fair rate you deserve.

CULTURAL TIPS

Vietnamese aren't fans of standing in lines, they will cut thorough you like thin air. Prepare to protect your spots in lines. Obviously stay positive and cool while doing so, you are on vacation. :)
They love honking in Vietnam, just get used to it.
Crossing the street can be a real challenge, the roads are very busy with hundreds of scooters and cars. There is no such a thing as courtesy to pedestrians, if you will wait for drivers to stop for you to cross a crosswalk you better be prepared to stay in the spot for the rest of your life. So how do you cross? You just do. Look both ways and then start crossing slowly and confidently while keeping your eyes at the direction of traffic and on the drivers. It will feel like crossing through a huge pack of salmon in a gushy river, but you miraculously make it to the other side every time. Once you start crossing, never step backwards.

MISC.

While many know this city as "Saigon", its official name since 1975 is Ho Chi Minh City. "Saigon" is still widely used though.
Electrical outlet...
Fun fact: Vietnamese are big on karaoke!

Our route:

We started in Ho Chi Minh City (Saigon), from there we flew to Da Nang and stayed in Hoi An (40 minutes car ride from Da Nang). We then flew to Hanoi, stayed in Hanoi's old quarter for a few days, took and awesome two day, one night trip to Halong Bay, and lastly went back to Hanoi for a couple of more days before flying out to Thailand. I am currently writing this sitting on a flight to Bangkok.

Choose and click on a place below to find out where to stay, where to eat, and what to do!

Ho Chi Minh (Saigon)
Hoi An (Ancient Town)
Hanoi
And the cherry on top of this Vietnamese cake:
Halong bay!

Why You Should Not Visit The Gili Islands

Well, at least why you shouldn't visit Gili Air.

The Gili Islands are a group of 3 small islands east of Bali. The first one on the left is Gili Trawangan (AKA "Gili T"), which is the largest of the three. Gili T is known for its wild night life, which includes 24/7 loud music and many drunk tourists. The next one, in the middle, is Gili Meno, rumored to be the most untouched and least "developed" of the three. Supposedly, staying here offers a very relaxing and laid-back experience. The last one, Gili Air, is known for being a good balance between Gili T and Gili Meno—not a crazy over-developed, over-crowded party place, yet not as "dull" as Gili Meno. Gili Air has more options—such as a good range of accommodations, activities and restaurants. Because we like balance, we chose Gili Air for our 4 day, 3 night stay. While this sneaky little island does make a good setting for some awesome photos, we don't believe a few nice photos are worth the trek.

Here is what I feel you should know:

It is pretty expensive to get there from Bali (about $100, round trip per person). It is also a quite choppy 1.5 hr ride each way. Don't forget to factor in the additional 1-2 hour transportation within Bali to/from the Padang Bai harbor.
The island stinks, and I mean it in the most literal way possible. It is a tiny island and it appears that they only remove the collected garbage every few days by way of transfer over to Lombok (bigger, main Island), in boats. Until that pick up time comes, huge piles of smelly garbage get piled on shore by the harbor to welcome the arriving tourists. They also constantly use water hoses (judging by the smell, possibly re-used or sewer water) to wet the sand in the pathways throughout the island to make it more solid and therefore easier to walk/ride bicycles on. This doesn't help the odor situation on the island.
There doesn't seem to be a fresh water source, so I can only assume they outsource their water. The water there (shower/faucets) also stinks. Our hair got really sticky and showers didn't feel as a cleansing as they should. If you do make it to the island, definitely make it a point to only drink/brush with mineral water.
What is marketed as white sandy beaches is actually razor-sharp broken, dead coral. This makes enjoying the beach a very difficult experience.
The food there isn't nearly as good as in Bali and it is certainly over-priced in comparison. Same goes for accommodations.
The locals are a bit "detached" and aren't as nice as what we got used to in Bali.
There is a lot of construction happening on the island, seems like they are trying to catch up with the influx of tourism. Not too pretty or too convenient.

The above is a pretty gloomy picture but that is the plain reality. Disclaimer: we aren't big divers, which is said to be pretty good in the Gilis. Then again, from what we've heard, the diving highlight is seeing a sea turtle. You can do that in so many other, more beautiful places.

Canggu

Canguu is a great little area with a handful of cool restaurants, yoga classes, and a winding road to one of Bali's hippest restaurant-lounges. Rent a motorbike and let the exploring begin!

Where to stay

Desa Seni - A Village Resort

Desa Seni Village Resort is a quick portal to the mind-body-spirit connection you've been searching for, not to mention the nature connection too. We highly recommend splurging on a few nights, or staying there for as long as time or money allows. We literally started doing the math on how much it would cost to live there forever. :) Their amazing staff will address you by name, and their on-site gardens produce 80% of the organic herbs and vegetables used on the restaurant's menu. This truly authentic eco-village also offers Canguu's most sought-after yoga, meditation classes (the teachers are amazing) and spa treatments. Book now, thank us later. Prices from $180 per night.

Where to eat

La Laguna

If you've ever dreamed of finding yourself drinking and dining in the middle of a gypsy village on the beach (and we bet you did!), this is your place. These guys own several restaurants in Bali including La Favela in Seminyak, and each one of their places is an intricate piece of art.

What to do

Yoga and Meditation

If you aren't staying at Desa Seni, the least you can do is treat yourself to one or many of their awesome yoga and/or meditation classes. $10 per class. Discounted class cards are available.

Structural Realignment & Chinese Osteopathic Therapy

Because your spine will thank you. Around $38 for 60 minutes or $95 for a package of 3 sessions.

Seminyak

With its close proximity to the airport and the wide access to any type of activity, Seminyak can easily be your home-base when visiting Bali, or maybe the place you spend the first/last few days of your Bali vacation. Seminyak is located north of Kuta and is known as the more relaxed, less hectic area in comparison to Kuta (where you will mostly find a party-hungry crowd). There is plenty to do in Seminyak and it is a cool area that should definitely be explored, but keep in mind that (in our opinion) it is less of an authentic Bali experience and more of a fun, good-vibe vacation spot.

Where to stay

Jeje's Secret Wooden House
Check prices and availability
Great value for the price, these uniquely designed Balinese cabins with AC are located on a beautiful property. 10 minute scooter drive from the center of Seminyak. Approx. $38 per night.

Where to eat

La Favela

Owned by the same guys who own La Laguna in Canggu and a few other spots on the island, there are no words can truly do justice to describe this place. Take your time walking around to explore the one-of-a-kind unique design and art. The different floors and the many hidden rooms will leave you jaw-dropped. Food and cocktails are great. Pricier for Bali but nothing too crazy, and it's certainly worth it. Take note: At night the furniture disappears and the place turns into a well-known bar/club.

What to do

Shopping - WE'AR Yoga Clothing & Off Duty Wear

If you are looking for some unique yoga and casual wear, definitely check out this designer from New Zealand. Everything made in Bali.

Escape the Room

Whether you've played one these games before, or even if this is your first time, you are guaranteed to enjoy this cool experience! Nice activity for a way-too-hot, or rainy day.

Uluwatu

Uluwatu features some of Bali's (and the world's) most unique and beautiful beaches and surf spots. Be sure to spend at least a few days there to relax and soak up some sun, surf or watch the awesome waves. Good food also guaranteed!

Where to stay

D'Padang Home ST
Check prices and availability
Pretty basic rooms with AC, cool pool and a great location. Approx. $38 per night.

Where to eat

T he Mango Tree Cafe

An awesome, laid-back restaurant with great prices. Definitely try the the zoodled carrot and beet vegetable salad with tahini dressing!

Bukit Cafe

Cool place for brunch. Service can bit a little hit-or-miss.

Single Fin

Great spot for beer or cocktails while watching an amazing sunset and some great waves. Weekend nights can get pretty wild so if you're into it, this is a bar with a party scene. A bit pricier for Bali.

What to do

Uluwatu Temple

A beautiful temple with amazing views on the edge of a cliff. They have a traditional Balinese dance performance daily at 6pm (approx. $8). It costs about 7 cents to enter the parking lot with a motorbike or 15 cents with a car. Entrance fee to the temple is about $1.5. Pro tips: You must wear a Sarong in order to enter the temple, bring your own or get one for free while buying your entrance ticket. Arrive around 5pm so you can walk around for 45 minutes before getting a seat for the show. They start selling tickets at 5pm and it can get pretty hectic pretty fast. Stay calm, have the exact cash ready (100,000 IDR per person), push your way through the many tour guides and wave the money while yelling the number of tickets ("two tickets please!!"). Kind of like Wall Street. Important: There are monkeys walking around the temple. Unlike the monkeys at the Sacred Monkey Forrest in Ubud, these ones are pretty aggressive. Absolutely do not wear sunglasses, jewelry, hold a bottle of water, or generally have any loose articles. These monkeys will snatch your stuff in no-time, and there is no getting it back. Try to avoid these monkeys and do not make eye contact, there are plenty of other opportunities to meet some nice monkeys in Bali. :)

Bingin Beach

The many steps that lead to this magical beach are surely worth it. Spend the day there and as the evening unfolds watch all the fishermen set up tables on the sand for an awesome seafood feast. You will be able to choose your fresh fish on the spot, and sip a beer while they grill your selections.

Padang Padang Beach

As you drive across the main street (Jalan Labuansait) and cross a small bridge, you won't miss this gem of a beach. It is the one where many people stop on the side of the road to snap an awesome photo from above. If you pass the bridge driving east, the entrance will be on the left. They charge about 75 cents to enter but it is certainly worth it!

Suluban Beach (AKA Uluwatu Beach)

Although a bit difficult to find (take the left lane at this fork and follow the "Uluwatu Beach" signs), this one is truly a hidden paradise. Pro tip: when arriving down there, do not miss the even-more-hidden beach nicknamed "Sunny Beach". You will have to go through the cave on your left. Not to worry, it's really easy! And wait until you see the beach that gets revealed!

Surf

Bali, in general, and Uluwatu, specifically, features some of the world's most amazing waves. Whether you are a pro-surfer or just interested in taking some lessons, Bali has you covered. We spent a few days at Rapture Surf Camp and had fun. Things to note: they have two camps in Bali. Their "Padang Padang" surf camp is better-situated and generally has a warmer feel to it. I don't think this company is a good choice if this is your first time surfing. Also, be sure to surf with lycra on, no matter what they say. Even though the water temp is great, wax + salt water + exposed chest = a painful experience.

Ubud

Located in the heart of Bali, this jungle of a place has some amazing restaurants, boutiques, as well as nature treks. Many people who visit Ubud on a quick day tour seem to find it underwhelming. We are guessing that it's due to those people being dropped off on the main street, which is a serious tourist hub (to give you an idea, that street is the home of the only Starbucks we saw in Bali). The real magic of Ubud is hiding in the side-streets and the outskirts. We seriously believe that Ubud and its environs are places not to be missed.

Where to stay

To get the most out of this place you should definitely check out the many Airbnb's and homestay villas available in and around Ubud. We stayed in Tegalalang which is a 15 minute scooter drive from central Ubud.

Christina's villa in Tegalalang
Check prices and availability
A private loft-style villa with a pool, Approx. $70 per night, suitable for a couple.

Taman Thai Villa
Check prices and availability
A cool, newly built villa with with traditional Balinese design and wonderful rice field views. The villa features a large living room and kitchen, plus 3 bedrooms with en-suite private bathrooms. Rooms can be rented separately, approx. $40 per night. Great Thai restaurant on property.

Where to eat

Atman Cafe

Try the coconut pancakes with caramelized banana for breakfast and the chickpea-beetroot falafel for lunch!

Kafe

Quaint outdoor seating. Perfect for having a meal while people watching on Hanoman street.

Earth Cafe

Vegan hotspot, Mediterranean and East-Asian menu items. Awesome views of Ubud's rooftops.

Sari Organik

Be sure to dine at the one on Subak Sok Wayah Street, located in a rural area surrounded by rice fields. Wonderful organic dining experience for lunch and dinner.

Warung Sharaswhaty

Great Indian food with a very relaxed and laid-back atmosphere. Sit on the second floor, cross-legged on pillows.

Yellow Flower

The many steps that lead to this hidden gem will well be worth it. Beautiful place with breathtaking views, delicious vegetarian-only cuisine.

La Pachamama

If you're missing some Mexican flair, this is a cool, vegan place with great cocktails. Expect higher prices compared to other spots.

Dapur Bunda

Indonesian tapas? Yes please. Authentic cuisine and beautiful homestyle experience.

Bali Buda

Our go-to grocery store!

What to do

Hike Mount Batur

This volcano is located in northern Bali so it is suggested that you book the tour while staying in Ubud. Highly recommended to hike it over-night so you can watch the sunset at the top. Be sure to bring warm clothing! Do it with a private guide. There are many options on Trip Advisor or get in touch with us and we can share our guide's information.

Alam coffee plantation

Ever watched the movie "The Bucket List"? Go try Jack Nicholson's favorite coffee - world-famous Kopi Luwak. Great experience where you will get to taste many types of unique coffees and teas in a beautiful setting. Only costs a few dollars!

Chez Monique silver jewelry class

A silver welding and jewelry making class where you'll leave with your own finished creation, ready-to-wear. Chez Monique is an ever-unique experience inside a family's home and business that will tap you into the craftsmanship culture of Ubud. Cost: approx. 33 USD. Time: 2-3 hours.

Five Art Studio wood carving or painting class

Come to learn the ancient ways of Balinese woodwork or tapestry painting, and leave with your own art piece + memories of Ubud's cutest family; all of which will surely last a lifetime. Wayan's passion for life, art and education is contagious. We can't wait to come back to volunteer in his English-speaking classes for his community, coming soon! Cost: approx. 30 USD. Time: 3-4 hours.

Ubud Traditional Spa

A hidden gem and true bargain. It's difficult to choose the best thing about this place: their on-site fruit and herb garden is the source of your tea, massage oil, and fruit plate; their staff is another special extension of Balinese warmth and hospitality. If you're looking for a traditional spa experience in Bali, the name says it all. $14 for 60 minutes.

Ubud Yoga House

Open-air yoga studio in the middle of Ubud's rice fields? Yes, please! $10 per class, or less, if you opt to buy the 3/5/10/20 class cards.

Sacred Monkey Forest

A beautiful place to visit and walk around. Friendly monkeys all over the place, guaranteed. Be sure to pass the entrance quickly in order to venture to the less touristy areas and have some 1 on 1 (or 5 on 1) time with the monkeys. There are ladies who sell banana bunches so you can feed them, approx. $2 for a small bunch and $4 for a large. Pro tips: Don't wear any jewelry or sunglasses as the monkeys snatch them for their own. Go earlier in the day, as the monkeys can get over-indulged by the hoards of tourists—to the point they won't interact. If you want to snatch a photo with a monkey hold a banana above your shoulder or your head, and they will climb you like a tree. Nothing to fear! These guys are cool. Entrance cost is $3 per person.

Bali Travel Guide

Bali is a portal, where in the midst of the tourist hustle—full of vegans and yogis racing through the streets (as if it were New York) in search of pranna—there are the Balinese people, who open up a world of new magic if you simply share a smile. And so off you go, smiling all day to these Balinese who live their lives below the surface of the tourism: they tend the rice patties, and beat drums with the buzz of the bugs. They present hand-made offerings to the temple gods, who seem to have more real estate on this island than the Balinese themselves.